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Everest Expedition Details
Length - 7-9 Weeks
Cost - $65,000 (2009)
Max Ratio - 9 climbers with 3 western guides plus Sherpa support.
Capacity - 9
Location
Nepal, Mount Everest and the Khumbu Region
Prerequisites
Multiple ascents to 20,000 feet, experience in cold-weather expedition climbing, and a full repertoire of alpine climbing and glacier travel skills.
Program Dates
Mar 30 - Jun 2, 2010
Mar 30 - Jun 2, 2011
Mar 30 - Jun 2, 2012

 

Everest Expedition

Equipment List Dispatches Virtual Tour

Mount Everest - 29,035 ft. / 8,850m

Mount Everest is still the ultimate mountaineering adventure. As the highest mountain in the world, Everest has immense appeal to mountaineers and fascination for non-climbers, but it also has tremendous allure because of its position in Nepal's Khumbu, one of the world's most beautiful mountain regions, and because of its remarkable climbing history. An ascent of Everest provides immense personal challenge, a rewarding cultural experience on approach, and a personal connection with a rich history of exploration.


The spectacular West Face of Everest. Guy Cotter

An attempt on Mt Everest is also a major undertaking which requires significant climbing experience, solid alpine skills, good mountain judgment, excellent physical conditioning, and a huge amount of dedication and determination. If you see Everest as a definite or possible climbing goal for yourself, we can help you through all the stages of your preparation, from technical skills development to training in cold weather survival skills and the gaining of climbing experience at high altitude.


High on Everest with Makalu in the background. Guy Cotter

Our Route

View and download our detailed expedition notes for the Everest Expedition.

We climb Everest via the South Col route from Nepal in the spring season because this route and timing offer the absolute best chance of success. Routes from the north are technically more difficult, especially high on the mountain, and in the spring climbing season, we gain the dual advantages of getting progressively milder weather as we move closer to the summit and of climbing more stable slopes because the winter winds have scoured away much of the snow, significantly reducing the avalanche hazard.

This expedition is a joint American Alpine Institute / Adventure Consultants undertaking. The Institute has the most extensive and successful high altitude guiding record in the world, and Adventure Consultants has the highest success rate guiding on Mt. Everest (with 167 climbers reaching the summit). Both companies are committed to meticulous preparation. From expert Sherpas and support staff, to careful menu planning, oxygen support, satellite communication, environmental protection, and a mountain clean-up plan, our expedition is finely tuned to Leave No Trace while offering you the highest possible chances for success.


Camp I (5900m / 19,500ft) at the entrance to the Western Cwm, or the Silent Valley.

Our Approach

By the time you arrive at the base camp at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall, a route will already be established with ropes and ladders through the icefall to Camp 1, and our strong Sherpa team will be ferrying loads of equipment up the mountain. On your first acclimatization foray, you'll spend several days at and above Camp 2. On your second foray, you'll spend several days and nights at Camp 3, and on your summit attempt, we will climb through the established camps with lightweight packs to Camp 4 on the South Col. All climbers will be sleeping on bottled oxygen before setting out for the summit, carrying only very lightweight Russian oxygen bottles.

The expedition will be organized in such a way to allow members to concentrate largely on their own health and performance, without the burden of load carrying or dealing with logistics. A doctor, who is experienced in high altitude medicine, will be resident at base camp throughout the expedition to monitor your acclimatization and provide for your health care.

To gain a full understanding of your body's response to altitude and to gain experience with Himalayan conditions, we recommend you join us for two expeditions prior to Everest (Alaska's Denali and Tibet's Cho Oyu are our top choices for your preparatory steps to the summit of Everest). Please see our web site for more details on all these expeditions or call us to discuss our high altitude program.


The top of the Hillary Step.

Staffing and Equipment

The success of an expedition is often determined by factors that are planned well in advance of the actual climbing; the many years spent fine-tuning the operational blue print for this expedition has led to a high proportion of our expedition members reaching the summit.

Our guide team and Sherpa staff are of the highest caliber in the industry, and our climber-to-guide climbing ratios are lower than that provided by any other expedition operator. While we see some other operators foregoing the use of Western Guides in favor of Sherpa-only guiding staff, we know that this places undue pressure on these highly capable but largely untrained people. Instead, our expedition combines the strengths of our guides and Sherpas to operate as a cohesive unit, contributing to a very complete and highly efficient team.


The Summit! Hopefully you'll get 30 minutes on top of the world.

AC/AAI expeditions have a history of employing the most up-to-date and appropriate technological equipment and systems, and we are constantly evolving these systems to ensure we are performing to the highest levels of modern expedition climbing. We incorporate specialized weather forecasting services into our ascent program and apply our knowledge base to interpret these towards a higher standard of decision making and rate of success. We place special focus on catering and sustenance, training our cooking staff to provide excellent meals that earn constant positive feedback from our clients. We are the only team which employs its own dedicated expedition doctor whose sole purpose is to ensure the ongoing health of the team members, staff, and Sherpas.

An attempt on Mt Everest is a committing undertaking which requires a huge amount of dedication and determination. If you are serious about achieving the top and feel you have the right ingredients and experience, we invite you to apply for a position on our team in 2011.




Follow Up Programs
Argentina - Aconcagua Expedition
21 Days Intermediate Argentine Andes December - February
Standing at a height of 22,842 feet, Aconcagua is the highest mountain outside of central Asia. The Upper Guanacos is a standard route, and the technical Polish Glacier route attracts experienced mountaineers from around the world.

 
Denali Expedition - West Buttress
21 Days Intermediate Alaska Range May - July
Over the course of 21 days, we establish 4 camps ranging from 7,800 to 17,200 feet on the West Buttress of the tallest mountain in North America, Denali.

 
Kilimanjaro Expedition
9 Days (7 days climbing); 4 day Safari optional Beginner Tanzania, East Africa Year-round
Kilimanjaro is among the most diverse and rewarding of the world's great climbs. Join us for a journey to the roof of Africa and along the way gain insight into local cultures and enjoy superb wildlife viewing.

 


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