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The Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership program has three segments, and you can choose to take one, two, or all three. Part 1 provides a comprehensive introduction to all the skills of alpine mountaineering and team leadership. Part 2 teaches more advanced skills and technical leading techniques for multi-pitch rock routes while further developing skills on snow, ice, and rock. Part 3 is an expedition on which all skills are employed in a remote and complex big-mountain context. This program has been described by AMGA National Accreditation reviewers as "the most practical and complete course devoted to technical mountain leadership offered in America." Complete all three parts and receive a certificate in Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership.

The final portion of the Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership Program is an expedition into one of three major North American ranges: the remote and spectacular Picket Range in the North Cascades; the remarkable granite rock spires that rise from the complex, heavily glaciated terrain of Bugaboo Provincial Park in British Columbia; or the rugged, dramatic, and seldom climbed Mt. Waddington in the British Columbia Coast Range. Each area has a different emphasis.

Mt. Waddington is among the most remote, beautiful, and seldom seen climbs in North America. Dylan Taylor

In order to participate in this high-end training and expedition, you must first complete Parts 1 and 2. If you took Part 2 more than a year and a half prior, you will need to take a four-day refresher course. If you have engaged in a significant amount of climbing in the interim this may be waived.

This program offers the unique opportunity for participants to co-lead an expedition and to obtain further instruction. The expedition serves as a finale to the leadership program because it brings together all the logistical skills, climbing techniques, and mountain judgment learned and practiced in Parts 2 and 3 in a bigger, more complex and more challenging environment.

Beautiful Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos. Andy Bourne

The third part of our Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership series includes three options. Each of these options run on different dates. And though some may wish to participate in only one of these options, others will want to continue to expand their climbing and expeditionary skills by participating in all three.

• Picket Range (3a) - Advanced Alpine Climbing, Aid Climbing, Big Wall Techniques & Remote Cascade Expedition
• Bugaboos (3b) - Advanced Alpine Climbing and Bugaboos Expedition
• Waddington (3c) - Advanced Alpine Climbing and Mount Waddington Expedition

It is our primary goal that upon completion of this program you will be able to function successfully as an alpine climbing leader at an advanced level. Climbers who successfully complete all 3 parts of this program receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership. One does not need to complete Parts 3a, 3b, and 3c to attain this certification.

2010 Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership Part 3 dates:

• July 4 - 15: Picket Range Expedition (3a)
• July 18 - 29: Waddington Expedition (3c)
• August 1 - 12: Bugaboo Range Expedition (3b)
• August 15 - 26: Picket Range Expedition (3a)
• August 28 - September 8: Picket Range Expedition (3a)

Structure and Goals:

In this third 12-day segment of the program you will develop more sophisticated technical skills on rock, snow and ice while making ascents of technical rock routes using both free and aid techniques as well as continuing to explore the rugged glaciers and high peaks of North Cascades National Park. This is one of the rare courses in the world that specifically teaches techniques for leading on rock, snow, and ice. You will increase your proficiency in free climbing, you will learn the techniques required to climb big wall aid routes and you will become capable of setting up sophisticated rescue systems.

Your instructors will help you refine your route selection skills, route finding, and natural hazard evaluation that were introduced in Parts I and II. Additionally, we emphasize the development of both the judgment and the specific climbing and protective systems skills required for leading more advanced climbs. It is our goal that you emerge from this program as a qualified rope team leader on both rock and glacier routes.

The Northern Picket Range, from the summit of Mt. Challenger. Myron Allen

Structure and Goals:

In this third 12-day segment of the program you will develop more sophisticated technical skills on rock, snow and ice while making ascents of technical rock routes in the Bugaboo Provincial Park in British Columbia. This is one of the rare courses in the world that specifically teaches techniques for leading on rock, snow, and ice. You will increase your proficiency as a free climber as well as engage in complex glacier travel.

Your instructors will help you refine your route selection skills, route finding, and natural hazard evaluation that were introduced in Parts I and II. Additionally, we emphasize the development of both the judgment and the specific climbing and protective systems skills required for leading more advanced climbs. It is our goal that you emerge from this program as a qualified rope team leader on both rock and glacier routes.

Structure and Goals:

In this third 12-day segment of the program you will develop more sophisticated technical skills on rock, snow and ice while making an expedition style ascent of Mount Waddington. This is one of the rare courses in the world that finishes on such a remote, technical and beautiful mountains.

Your instructors will help you refine your route selection skills, route finding, and natural hazard evaluation that were introduced in Parts I and II. Additionally, we emphasize the development of both the judgment and the specific climbing and protective systems skills required for co-leading an expedition with a high-end technical objective. It is our goal that you emerge from this program as a qualified rope team leader on both rock and glacier routes.