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Climber Comments and Feedback from AAI's 2008 Denali Expeditions
In trying to determine the quality of a product or service, few things speak louder and carry more meaning than first-hand
experiences and personal testimony. In an effort to try to give you a clear idea of who we are, what we stand for, and how we
operate our business, we would like to share some of the thousands of testimonials that we have received from members of our
courses, guided climbs, and expeditions over the years.
As part of AAI's ongoing efforts to keep improving the way we do business and continue to meet or exceed climbers'
expectations, we ask each climber who joins us to pass along their thoughts and feedback in a formal manner. We make this
possible via a written form and also via our web site in an electronic format. We ask a series of questions that cover
climbers' experiences from their first contact with AAI through their post-trip debrief.
We take both positive feedback and constructive criticism to heart and use it to assure that we continue to give
climbers like you a great experience. We hope you enjoy reading samples from the past year's feedback, and that you will join
an AAI program and share some of the rich experiences that our programs and staff have to offer.
Sincerely,

Dunham Gooding, Director
 AAI's June 3-23 Expedition on the Summit of Denali.
1. What was your overall impression of your guide? What did your guide do well? What could your guide improve on?
- To begin with, all of your guides are exceptional in experience and ability. I climbed with the lead guide on my
Basic Mountaineering course a few years ago with AAI and it was great to join him again on Denali.
- My guide was professional, friendly and hard working. He had a lot of work to do on this trip. His judgment calls were
excellent, and we achieved everything we set out to do, summit and get back down as quickly as possible. Excellent.
- All our guides were personable, knowledgeable, and approachable. They were all very encouraging and were
constantly finding ways to involve us (the clients) in the progress of the climb.
- My guides were very good to excellent (9.5 out of 10).
- Very professional. I had complete trust in their abilities and both were very personable.
- All three were very professional and obviously know their trade.
- The guides were superb. They all had very positive attitudes and were very knowledgeable about the trip, the terrain
and the day to day details of the climb. They were very good about updating the group on any changes in plans due to weather or
client health.
- Excellent, the guides provided us with the guidance and knowledge to allow us to summit. Never were
we in a situation that any of us felt uncomfortable. They were extremely skilled and shared their knowledge with us.
- All three were excellent. I could not have hand picked a better crew. You are fortunate to have such skilled personnel.
I hope you treat them well!
- The guides were great. They knew the mountain well. All three had the technical skills necessary and the ability to teach them.
- Overall, the guides were experienced, professional and strong climbers. They worked well together as a team and did a good
job creating a team atmosphere among the climbers.
- The AAI guides were/are excellent. I have undertaken other guided expeditions and found that the lead guide's leadership, sharing
the decision-making with the other guides to be balanced and fair. The decision-making process was explained to all the team
and was always transparent and timely. This added to the 'great' experience and good team moral.
- First, let me say I totally disagreed with the decision not to rest at High Camp for one day before leaving for the summit.
Second, I was totally wrong about the first thing. Thankfully, I knew enough to keep my mouth shut and leave the guiding to
the professionals. The guides gave us firm leadership when we needed it, and executed good safe decisions on the mountain. In
reality, what else do you want from a guide(s)? All three are excellent guides, and beyond that great people. I
would be happy to climb with them again.
- Both guides were great. They were very experienced and professional on this expedition, and seemed to work well together. I
have absolutely nothing bad to say about them whatsoever, and I hope to be climbing with them again soon.
2. What did your guide do well? Would you suggest any impovements?
- Although this was not a course, I think all of the clients improved their climbing skills throughout the expedition. The guides
possessed exemplary knowledge and excersized patience in relaying those skills to the clients.
- Great knowledge of the route. Good comaraderie with the clients.
- We (Elaine and I) thought that they knew what steps to take all along the progress of the trip. They even knew other resources, like
lodging and transportation, before and after, our trip. They knew what to expect as far as conditions, and what difficulties and dangers
we might face along the way. The lead guide, particularly, was aggressive about keeping us acclimatized and active even when the weather didn't
support a move. His decision-making was safe, yet he was constantly looking for a way for us to achieve our goal of making the summit.
When the summit ridge wasn't safe, he found a way to circumvent the windy, knife-edged ridge, and safely got us to the summit anyway.
We were very grateful for his creativity. He did check with all of us to see if 'we were up to it' before reascending toward the summit.
We thought he was thinking of safety and the client's goals all along the way.
- Both were able to explain technique and skills in a way that it was easy to understand quickly. Always willing to delve deeper
into a topic if need be. They were good listeners, and made the atmosphere comfortable for the clients. Always ready for a good laugh
and story in the cook tent, and willing to share their experiences. There were able to relate to each of us.
- All of the guides were very good listeners and were very respectful of the differences in attitudes and abilities of the clients.
The guides were supportive and always helpful with any issues that came up. The food was prepared well with attention to detail and
more than adequate quantities. The pace was slow and steady as advertised.
- As stated above, the training and sharing of knowledge. They were also great cooks. Always made sure that we ate well and stayed
well hydrated. The Denali environment required both to stay on top of the game. I learned so much about staying warm from the guides
as well as others in our group. I was never in danger of frostbite or even discomfort despite the well below zero conditions we were
exposed to.
- The guides, were strong, patient, and had both a great sense of humor and the knowledge and skills needed to have a succesful
trip. Guide 1 has a great sense of humor, is surprisingly strong, and has great first aid and wilderness medicine skills. Guide 2 is a
natural leader who made a great lead guide and a heck of a photographer. After seeing the pictures he provided us with copies of I
thought he should have charged extra. They were great, particularly because my camera froze at 11,000 ft. Guide 3 was so enthusiastic
about being on the mountain that it was virtually palpable. That enthusiasm and excitement really makes a difference. He's also a
very strong climber and guide in his own right.
- The food was excellent and the teaching aspects of the program were very well done. They were extremely professional
and conscientious throughout, always checking and double checking equipment, rope, harnesses, etc. The guides were very
patient in answering questions and providing assistance on equipment, layering, self-care, etc.
- The guides conducted themselves in truly professional ways - at times even when it was obvious that we all were tired - they
stepped-up and performed. For example coming into camp after a particular hard day they still prepared meals, answered potentially
silly questions from exhausted climbers and put a friendly face on.
3. Did you feel that the expedition was designed well? Improvements?
- Designed very well. Clearly well proven. Good camp placements. Caching was excellent acclimatization. Sleds worked perfectly.
- Everyone on the team knew the skills and techniques well when we needed them. I thought the session on using ascenders and the
rope for protection was simple, redundant, and effective. Skills that weren't needed were not taught. It helped all the clients to
focus on what was important, safe, and efficient.I really liked the redundancy of having things like the itinerary of our trip
available both in print and on line. I could share it with friends and family easily. We did like having the gear checklists
available with more than one check-off column.
- The timing of the ascent was perfect.The fact that we could summit was to a great deal thanks to the competence of the guides.
They were always concerned about security and looked for the wellbeing of the team. Their cooking was excellent. I remain very thankful to him for all his efforts to
having brought us up and down the mountain again.
4. What Information in the registration materials did you find useful? What additional
information would you want to be included?
- All information is better than any I have seen.
- It was excellent. The kit list was particularly good and well thought out.
- The gear list was most useful. The Program Coordinator's training guidelines and that there are no easy days on Denali should be
highlighted.
- Equipment list. You always worry about forgetting something. The list prepared us well. The training recommendations may have
been helpful for some, I read them only to make sure I was doing enough for the trip. My friends and I actually went beyond your
recommended training and it paid off.
- The best info was the contact info for the Program Coordinator :-))) He answered in a very timely fashion all my questions - even the most
lame ones :-))). The pre-trip notes were better than the oppositions - I know as my younger brother went with another guide service
and their notes aren't as good by a long way. He used mine!
- Equipment list was especially useful - especially where it gave specific recommendations for/against particular brands.
5. How did the office and equipment shop staff perform?
- All questions and information was provided very promptly and courteously. The gear shop responded to our orders very
quickly. Since this was our 'second ascent' opportunity, an adjustment to our account was taken care of without any hassle.
- The entire AAI staff are best - quick responses to emails and phone calls; always courteous and helpful. The guides were also
repsonsive to emails prior to the climb.
- Great communication. Keep up the good work
- Awesome! They could not have been better. Having used other guide companies, it was refreshing to be in
communication with someone in the office who could actually answer detailed questions about the climb. The Program Coordinator
is invaluable for his people skills and knowledge of the detailed knowledge of the climbs and what they require.
- Your office staff and especially the Program Coordinator is exceptional.
- The Program Coordinator and the entire staff are 5-star people, terrific at supporting clients.
6. Why did you choose the American Alpine Institute?
- I usually climb with another guide service. I looked up the companies who guide Denali and e-mailed a few. American Alpine
Institute seemed the most impressive to me.
- Good reputation, informative homepage.
- Prior experience on other trips. We find that the guides have a way of challenging us and customizing the trip to fit our
desires for learning and experience. We've found all the guides friendly, positive, and knowledgeable. We have learned a great
deal from them, even though we are experienced mountaineers as it is. We find the trips a way to reach our goals and to improve
our knowledge of dealing with the rock, snow, and ice environments effectively, safely, and efficiently.
- I spoke to the Program Coordinator who was very accommodating and his manner was propbably the main reason I went with AAI.
- I have developed an ongoing relationship with the Program Coordinator, and I believe he works hard at listening to clients
and mentoring them.
- AAI has a great reputation and my previous trip with AAI (Denali 2006 Trip 1) was well done so I came back to try again. The
web site, the catalog, the vast expertise of the guides, the Program Coordinator's calm support, the attention to detail during
the early stages all made me sure I had made the right choice again.
- AAI as a concessionaire, had a good reputation, and the second summits offer made me comfortable that fewer risks would be
taken by clients and guides as the financial motiviation to make the trip to the summit regardless of conditions would be somewhat
lessened.
- Many years ago I decided to try Denali and, after some research, I felt I needed a guide service. I visited the
internet and found several companies. After interviewing them, I felt that AAI required the most experience and training from
its participants. So, I felt that this gave me the safest and best chance to make the summit.
- Trip availability and discussions with the Alaska trip coordinator, on reputation, on my perceived value on the services
look and feel of the web page, and, word of mouth references from friends and family.
- Checked list of concessions with NPS and spoke with friends who were on Denali last year and observed guiding services in the field.
- The completeness of the web site, depth of information included in the printed materials, quality of the personal communication with office staff, safety record and summit success rate.
- I've climbed with you guys (and girls) a few times, and you have always done what you claimed, and I have never had a bad experience. If it isn't broke, I don't fix it.
7. Any additional comments? (Alaska course participants please comment on meals and food here):
- I've been on mountain trips where mealtime is something to be feared. The guides were great hosts and always prepared appetizing and interesting meals.
- The meals were an unexpected bonus. The hot meals in the evening boosted morale and replenished energy levels for the next day.
Specifically, I am a vegetarian and I was very pleased that the guides were prepared for that and made it a non-issue on the climb.
- Most of the food was very tasty and filling. There was always enough. I think the food was prepared in a way that would keep us
energized as well as satisfied for taste.
- The food was as good as food can be on a trip in the mountains. The variety was fine and the portions were more than adequate.
The guides all did very well in preparing the meals, there was a friendly competition to see who could get the best reviews from the
clients. The Trader Joe's miso soup and the guide's chai tea were totally awesome.
- Cliff blok shots and gels were a brilliant idea for summit packages.
- The pizza was awesome. So were the pasta dishes.
- I thought the meals were excellent, especially the dinners. I appreciated the variety of food and the flexibility of the guides in
addressing dietary concerns.
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