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WHAT'S INSIDE:

  • FEATURE ARTICLE: Jim and Jessica: Father & Daughter Climbing Partners

  • FALL PROGRAM HIGHLIGHTS: Red Rock season underway – New Top-Rope Site Manager Course; New Route on Ecuador's Chimborazo offers much safer climbing –

  • SPECIAL OFFER: Free rentals for Red Rock!

  • NEWS: AAI Launches a Blog

  • AAI INSIDER:
    - Expert Tips: Mountain Weather - When to go for the summit
    - Guides Choice: 2007 Equipment Awards announced
    - Photo Contest: Winners announced – Enter the next contest!
    - A Closing Note from AAI's Director, Dunham Gooding


FEATURE ARTICLE:

Jim and Jessica: Father & Daugher Climbing Partners
Seven-year-old Jessica Easter came home after school one fateful day in 1998 and announced to her dad that she wanted to be a mountain climber. Not a climber himself, Jim found himself by default learning the sport, and the two soon embarked on several major climbing trips, starting with an ascent of Mt. Baker when Jessica was 10. Here is their story.






FALL PROGRAM HIGHLIGHTS:

Red Rock season has begun!
Join us for fabulous desert climbing in sunny Red Rock, just outside of Las Vegas. Red Rock is a great place for climbers of all levels, as there are multiple top-roping areas as well as some of the longest and best non-granitic climbs in the country.


Get your AMGA Top-Rope Site Manager Certification
NEW!
The Top-Rope Site Manager course and certification is designed for those who wish to teach climbing in gyms, camps, schools, and universities, and greatly increases your chances of obtaining a job in this field. The course is offered in Red Rock, Nevada, this fall and winter and in the North Cascades of Washington in the summer of 2008.


Important Ecuador News!
New Route Established on Chimborazo:
Almost all ascents of Chimborazo have been done by one of four routes on the mountain's southeast side, all of which are now dangerously out of shape and subject to severe rockfall. Last spring AAI successfully scouted a new route on the north side of the mountain that will provide us with a much safer route to the summit. It also has the advantage of ending on the main summit, Whymper Peak (20,703'), and avoiding the 20,000-foot soft snow traverse across the vast summit plateau from Ventimilla Peak (20,539') where the other routes culminate. Our new north face route is very aesthetic: it offers high quality snow and ice climbing and a wilderness experience. We'll be using horses to carry our gear to base camp, and that just adds to the sense of remoteness and adventure. More details and photos.


SPECIAL OFFER: Free rentals for Red Rock!

Sign up for a day or more of climbing in Red Rock by October 10, 2007 and get a free rental package (helmet, harness, and shoes) for each day that you climb.

Mention code EN907 when registering. New registrations only. Cannot be combined with other promotions.

View our Year-Round Special Offers.




NEWS: AAI Launches a Blog!

In an ongoing effort to provide fun, interesting, and up-to-the minute climbing and trekking news, we have recently launched a Blog!

Visit alpineinstitute.blogspot.com to check out all things mountain, including pictures and video clips, climbing reports, AAI news, and the occasional musings of our office staff and guides.


EXPERT TIPS

Mountain Weather

- When to go for the summit -

by Alasdair Turner, AAI Guide and Instructor

The answer to the question of whether or not to leave camp for the summit can sometimes be obvious, such as on a morning that greets us with high winds that knock us off our feet or with a flash of lightning that allows us to momentarily see our partner's face while still motionless inside a sleeping bag. However, it is much more difficult in less extreme scenarios. What should you do if you wake to a clear morning with high clouds and a light wind? Or what if on a windless morning, dense fog envelops the tent? Read the full article.


GUIDES CHOICE

2007 Guides Choice Award Winners announced!

Throughout the year, AAI conducts rigorous field tests of clothing and equipment in a diversity of climates and mountain environments around the world. We annually give the Guides Choice Award to manufacturers for specific products when the tests demonstrate that they clearly stand above all the others in their product category. The testing identifies excellence in the three areas of design, performance, and durability.

Here are the 5 award winners for 2007:

(10% off at our gear shop or online through October 10!)


Kayland Apex Rock Boot
AAI testers found this to be their top choice for three-season alpine climbing. The Apex Rock is super light (800g), compatible with new-matic and strap-on crampons, and loaded with advantageous features like eVent lining, Vibram soles, and Dyneema-reinforced uppers. Versatile from the trail to the high alpine zone, testers found these boots to be extremely comfortable on the approach and excellent performers on technical terrain.

Black Diamond C3 Camalots
In a tight spot? With up to 30% less head width than any other micro cam, C3 Camalots fit in more places more securely. Testers found them easy to grab, even with gloves on and that their cable loops provide ample room for clipping in short or with a draw. They also liked having color-coded units and slings for quick ID.


Five Ten Camp Four Shoes
The Camp 4 is a rugged multi-purpose/approach shoe that features a molded PU external heel cage that adds rear-foot support and stability, allowing you to hump heavy loads for long distances, without the need for a high-top boot! Testers found this to be an extremely stable, secure shoe and appreciated its lace to toe closure that allows it to be worn relaxed, for a long-distance fit, or tightened, for climbing and scrambling. The co-molded Stealth C4+S1 high-friction soles were cited for providing "the world's best friction."


eVent Waterproof Fabrics
With its use of Direct Venting Technology, Guides Choice testers found that eVent waterproof fabrics let sweat escape up to twice as fast as common waterproof/breathables. They found that eVent fabrics stayed dry on the inside, overheated them less, gave them less post-exercise chill, and were generally more comfortable in both dry and wet conditions. Some products that use eVent Waterproof fabrics are:
Feathered Friends sleeping bags
Feathered Friends Frontpoint Jacket
Kayland Apex rock boots


DSM Dyneema
Dyneema is an exceptional fiber that is up to 15 times stronger than steel and, weight-for-weight, is 40% stronger than the closest competing fiber. Testers also appreciated its high energy absorption and low elongation. Dyneema floats on water and is extremely resistant to abrasion, moisture, UV rays, and chemicals. Products that use the Dyneema fiber include:
Mammut Contact Dyneema Slings
Kayland Apex Rock Shoe



PHOTO CONTEST

September 2007 Photo Contest: Vote for your favorite!
The photos are in, and now it's time for you, the readers, to decide which deserve to be winners.

Winner of July 2007 Photo Contest:
Congratulations to Katy Laveck of Makawao, Maui, for winning first, second, AND third place in our July Photo Contest! Katy, you really cleaned up! Here is Katy's winning 1st place photo:

"Mt. Shark Heli Ride - Alberta"


Enter the November 2007 Photo Contest!
Send your best mountain photo(s) to climberspath@aai.cc and have a chance at winning the following prizes:

  • 1st Place: $200 gift certificate for trips or $100 for gear
  • 2nd Place: $100 gift certificate for trips or $50 for gear
  • 3rd Place: $50 gift certificate for trips or $25 for gear

The act of submission constitutes your consent for AAI to publish your photo(s) online and in print.

Note: We have established two new rules for our photo contest:

  1. Only one win per contest is allowed per photographer.
  2. You can send multiple entries to each contest, but we will only choose two to enter in the contest.


A CLOSING NOTE

      As summer begins to draw towards a close, I'm sure you're keeping your eye out - as we are - for more sun and warm weather climbing. Luckily, our rock climbing season in Red Rock, Nevada, started this month, so we'll be able to find sunny, desert climbing all through the fall, winter, and spring! Here in the Institute office, we are on the cusp of "winter mode" and are spending most of our time accepting bookings for fall and winter trips, such as our Ecuador High Altitude Expedition, Aconcagua Expedition, Patagonia trekking and climbing programs, waterfall ice climbing and winter mountaineering courses in Colorado and California, and backcountry skiing and avalanche education programs. Indeed, as one season ends, another begins - how lucky we are to have year-round outdoor pursuits to keep us fit and happy and to keep our adventure quota filled.

Here's wishing you great adventures and fun in the seeking of them,


Dunham Gooding, Director




Founded in 1975, the American Alpine Institute is dedicated to helping beginning and experienced climbers improve their skills and safely gain access to the great mountains of the world while protecting the natural environment. We offer AMGA accredited instructional courses, guided trips, and expeditions throughout the year in 6 states and 16 countries.

American Alpine Institute
1515 12th Street
Bellingham, Washington 98225

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