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SPRING GREETINGS!
The new climbing season is here! It's time to reorganize your
rock rack and sharpen your tools for some great rock and summer ice climbing in the Cascades, Sierra, or abroad.
While you're preparing for your own climbing, if you enjoy following the progress of expeditions, be sure to check our daily dispatches page.
The 2008 Everest Expedition is progressing well, and in Alaska expeditions begin April 24th, 27th, and May 4th.
Each team has a satellite phone, so we'll be looking forward to news on a near daily basis. Our first Bolivia Expedition begins May 31st,
so there will be a lot to read if you are interested in getting the real flavor of these diverse expeditionary experiences.
If your early summer schedule has opened up, there is still a spot open on Denali in mid-May and
another three places on our last trip which begins June 18th. Bolivia has openings on trips beginning May 31st, July 26th, and August 23rd.
New this year are May, June, and July Ecuador high altitude climbs.
Closer to home, we received great winter/spring snowpacks in both the Sierra and Cascades,
so we're expecting great snow and ice climbing (as well as well as the normal excellent rock) all summer. Whether it's a three or four-day climb of Whitney,
Baker, or Rainier, or some skills training blended with a series of classic ascents, we hope you will spend some time with us.
We're ready for some great climbing, and you should join us.
Wishing you the best and looking forward to your company in the mountains,
Dunham Gooding, Director
WHAT'S INSIDE:
- FEATURE ARTICLE: Ama Dablam: A Summit Story, by AAI Guide Andrew Wexler
- PROGRAM HIGHLIGHTS: Spring into Summer and sign up for an alpine ascent!
- SPECIAL OFFER:
Register for any Cascades or Sierra program by May 30th and receive a one-time 15% discount on gear at
AAI's online gear shop!
- INSTITUTE NEWS:
AAI/AC Everest dispatches now online -
2008-09 Catalog Release -
American Foundation for Children with AIDS announces Summit Challenge -
Former AAI Guide publishes book on climbing in Ethiopia
- AAI INSIDER:
Ask a Guide:
AAI Guide Mike Powers delivers the beta on ice screw directionality and climbing efficiently with a large group
Guides Choice:
Check out the Guides Choice Winners
Photo Contest:
January winners announced, and it's time to vote for May's finalists!
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FEATURE ARTICLE:
Ama Dablam: A Summit Story
In late 2007, AAI Guide and author Andrew Wexler led a team to the summit of Ama Dablam. A near perfect journey, Andrew wrote
"everyone should be lucky enough to have one trip in their lives when perfect weather,
excellent climbing conditions, and a congenial group of people come together to make for an unforgettable journey.
For myself and the members of the 2007 AAI/Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition, this was the trip."
To view photos and to read Andrew's vivid, and sometimes humorous, account of the 2007 Ama Dablam expedition, follow this
link.
For more information on AAI's Ama Dablam expedition, follow this
link.
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PROGRAM HIGHLIGHTS:
→ Prepare for a season of summer ascents
Join an introductory mountaineering course in the Cascades or Sierra and acquire the skills to be a safe and independent climber!
Or reacquaint yourself with the great outdoors by joining a beautiful (and gourmet!) backpacking adventure in the Cascades, Alps, or Sierra.
→ Leadership training opportunities
→ South American adventures for all skill levels
Enjoy the beauty of the South American landscape in Bolivia and Ecuador while learning new skills or advancing the ones you have
and making a series of high altitude ascents. Peaks range from 17,000 to 21,000 feet. Adventure Travel has recognized AAI as
"by far the most experienced guide service in the Andes." Join us for a great adventure.
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 ASK A GUIDE: Your questions answered!
CAUTION: Mountain travel of any kind carries significant risks to the participants,
and travel on rock, snow, and ice carries inherent dangers that can lead to injury or death. Every situation is unique and calls for use of different techniques,
gear, and methodologies. Those choices must be made in the context and location where the activity will occur,
and final choices require an assessment by the person on the scene. Therefore, AAI assumes no responsibility or liability for
your use of the suggestions offered in this article or by guides and staff. AAI offers tips to assist climbers to expand their skills,
but makes no assertion regarding the appropriateness of choosing particular techniques, gear, methodologies, or ways of proceeding in any given circumstance.
You must make your own assessments and decisions, and you assume all risks in applying them.
QUESTION from Lisa Jensen of Boulder, Colorado
"On a multi-pitch ice route, when would the lead climber place a directional ice screw for an upward pull?
Would you also explain why one piece as a directional may be placed instead of two or three pieces
like in an anchor scenario? Also, is it ever appropriate or safe to tie a sling directly to an ice screw hanger in lieu of
clipping a carabiner in the ice screw hanger and attaching the sling to the carabiner?"
Read Mike's answer to this question
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QUESTION from Anthony Arena of Flagstaff, Arizona
"How do you climb efficiently with a large group?
I'm headed up to the Tetons this summer for a week or so of climbing with a few friends.
We're planning on taking the Underhill Ridge route up the Grand (about 5.6) for one of our climbs.
If there are three of us, I plan on climbing like normal and just bring up the two seconds simultaneously at the belay.
If there are four of us, I would rather climb in separate teams of two, but don't know if we have enough gear.
Is there any way for the second team to climb using the pro the first team placed? Or is it possible to climb as a party of four?"
Read Mike's answer to this question
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To ask Mike Powers your own climbing questions, email him at askaguide@aai.cc.
The Ask A Guide was created to answer your most pressing climbing related questions. Michael Powers,
AAI Senior Guide and our Assistant Director for Staff Development, answers all questions.
Michael oversees field staff, training, and continuing education, and serves as an instructor in mountaineering, ice, rock, and skiing.
He is an IFMGA certified climbing and ski guide, serves as an instructor and examiner for the AMGA's National Guide Certification Program,
and is a former Technical Director of the AMGA.
Read other Ask A Guide questions and answers.
GUIDES CHOICE: Guides Choice Winners - 2008 Spring Selection
The Guides Choice Award
is given to equipment and clothing that have proven to be of the highest quality in their product category on the
basis of excellence in design, performance, and durability. Here are a few items that have continued to impress us year after year:
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Wild Things duffel bags
This lasting product first received an award in 2003, and has yet to be replaced by something better. Whether traveling to your climbing destination or containing your gear on a sled in Alaska,
the Wild Things duffels continue to maintain our trust for being the beefiest and most durable duffel bag out there,
due to their Cordura fabric and careful construction. We've been using these duffels for many years, and they are the only model
that doesn't have to be replaced after one expedition or season. They are available in two sizes depending on your need;
the Mule (~8800 cubic inches) is bigger for the longest trips (and fits well on a sled),
while the Burro (~5500 cubic inches) is great for shorter expeditions, organizing your gear closet, or base camping.
Get one and never have to replace your travel luggage again! |
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Thermarest sleeping pads
A good night's sleep after a hard climb or while bivying high in the mountains is essential for physical and mental recovery . . .
enter the lightweight, packable, and comfortable Thermarest sleeping pad. Just like the bags above, these pads were awarded the guide's choice in 2003
and we haven't seen anything superior since! The Prolite 4 series features
a high insulation value and a plastic valve that doesn't freeze, making them ideal for camping on snow or chilly rock.
With models from 48" to 72" in length, these fit any body size and can be readily confined to any available space in your pack.
You'll likely find these pads under every one of our guides throughout the season, and for good reason - they continue to be the best model on the market. |
For advice on other gear, browse the Guides Choice web site. We feature weekly specials on a handful of items at substantial discounts. The clothing and equipment that is on sale changes every Tuesday, so check back each week.
PHOTO CONTEST
→ May 2008 Photo Contest: Vote for your favorite!
The photos are in, and now it's time for you, the reader, to decide which deserve to be winners.
→ Winner of January 2008 Photo Contest (click to see 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place winners):
Congratulations to Matt Thorum of Urbana, IL, for winning first place in our January Photo Contest!
Here is Matt's winning photo:
"Deming Glacier, Mt. Baker - July 2007"
→ Enter the May 2008 Photo Contest!
Send your best mountain photo(s) to climberspath@aai.cc and have a chance at winning the following prizes:
- 1st Place: $100 gift certificate for trips or gear
- 2nd Place: $75 gift certificate for trips or gear
- 3rd Place: $50 gift certificate for trips or gear
Rules:
- Only one win per contest is allowed per photographer.
- You can send multiple entries to each contest, but we will only choose two to enter in the contest.
- The act of submission constitutes your consent for AAI to publish your photo(s) online and in print.
- If you are selected as a winner, you will not be eligible for the next four newsletter photo contests.
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AAI is the longest continuously ACCREDITED AMGA GUIDE SERVICE in the United States
Founded in 1975, the American Alpine Institute is dedicated to helping beginning and experienced
climbers improve their skills and safely gain access to the great mountains of the world while protecting the natural environment. We offer AMGA accredited instructional courses,
guided trips, and expeditions throughout the year in 6 states and 16 countries.
American Alpine Institute
1515 12th Street
Bellingham, Washington 98225
Read past issues of AAI's E-newsletter.
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