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WHAT'S INSIDE:

  • FEATURE ARTICLE: "The Girth Pillar: Mt. Stuart's Perfect Alpine Rock Route"

  • WINTER PROGRAM HIGHLIGHTS: It's winter! Ice climbing, backcountry skiing, and winter mountaineering programs, plus South American expeditions and treks!

  • SPECIAL OFFER: 25% off any two gear purchases!

  • AAI NEWS: Events in the lives of AAI staff

  • AAI INSIDER:
    - Ask a Guide: This edition - Cordellette Length and Unsafe Cragging Concerns
    - Guides Choice: Fall Ice Sale! Up to 45% Off!
    - Photo Contest: September winners announced * Enter the next contest!


FEATURE ARTICLE:

The Girth Pillar: Mt. Stuart's Perfect Alpine Rock Route
Read an account and see stunning photos from Kevin Newell's unique climb of the Girth Pillar on Mt. Stuart this past summer. "High on the second pitch of the Girth Pillar, I am 100 percent immersed in the fingerlocks and toeholds that make this route barely possible when KABOOM! The sound of exploding, thundering ice blocks tumbling down the face to the right of me rips me out of my concentration . . ."





WINTER PROGRAM HIGHLIGHTS:

Winter time! Ice climbing anyone? Skiing?

South American Expeditions and Treks
Get away this winter to the incredible mountains of South America. We offer climbing expeditions in Ecuador as short as 10 days and treks and climbs in Patagonia from 11 to 13 days.

AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course
Aspiring rock climbing guide or outdoor leader? Get your AMGA Single Pitch Instructor certification this winter in beautiful Red Rock Canyon. This course is designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. We are also offering this course in the North Cascades of Washington State starting in May 2008. Scholarships available.



SPECIAL OFFER: 25% Off any two gear purchases!

Sign up for any course or expedition with us by November 25, 2007 and receive 25% off any two equipment purchases in our gear shop (available online).

Mention code EN1107 when registering. New order only. Cannot be applied retroactively to existing course registrations. Cannot be combined with other promotions or used on sale items.

View our Year-Round Special Offers.










AAI NEWS: Events in the lives of AAI staff

AAI guide and team enjoy success on Ama Dablam!
We recently received word that the joint American Alpine Institute/Adventure Consultants expedition has summited Ama Dablam successfully! The first summit team, including three climbers with AAI guide Andrew Wexler and Sherpa guide Lhakpa Dorje, summited between 12:30 and 12:45pm Nepal time on November 2. The second summit team with two guides, four climbers, and three Sherpa made it to the top as well on November 4. You can read all their dispatches and see pictures from the expedition by visiting
www.aai.cc/currentnews.

Two AAI guides enjoy seasonal ice on Colfax Peak, WA
AAI guides Kurt Hicks and Dylan Taylor just completed an alpine water ice ascent on Washington's Colfax Peak, very close to Mt. Baker. This route was originally put up in the early 1980s by two American Alpine Institute guides, Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston. Kurt and Dylan felt very lucky to climb this route and that their timing was perfect - late enough in the year for the water ice to be well formed up and early enough to avoid the big snows that will soon bury the glaciers and make the approach more difficult. Check out their story and amazing photos.

AAI guide buys photography and film studio
So, what do guides do when they're not guiding? Many of them are photographers, like AAI guide Peter Kuhnlein. Peter and his wife, Lisa, just bought and moved into a new photo and film studio in Anacortes, WA. They specialize in wedding, portrait, commercial, artist, and stock photography - check out their website: www.kuhnlein.com. Peter also does film work - one of his most interesting projects is his and Lisa's current assignment of traveling around the world and filming the traditional foods of indigenous people. This project is funded by the Center for Indigenous Peoples Nutrition and Environment. So far, they have been to Micronesia, Japan, Kenya, Nigeria, China, India, Thailand, Bella Coola (Canada), and the NW Territories (Canada). In May, the husband and wife team will be traveling to Baffin Island for more filming. Way to go Peter!

Want to stay updated? Check out our BLOG!
Visit alpineinstitute.blogspot.com to check out all things mountain, including pictures, video clips, climbing reports, AAI news, updates from our guides' lives, and the occasional musings of our office staff.


ASK A GUIDE: Your questions answered!

CAUTION: Mountain travel of any kind carries significant risks to the participants, and travel on rock, snow, and ice carries inherent dangers that can lead to injury or death. Every situation is unique and calls for use of different techniques, gear, and methodologies. Those choices must be made in the context and location where the activity will occur, and final choices require an assessment by the person on the scene. Therefore, AAI assumes no responsibility or liability for your use of the suggestions offered in this article or by guides and staff. AAI offers tips to assist climbers to expand their skills, but makes no assertion regarding the appropriateness of choosing particular techniques, gear, methodologies, or ways of proceeding in any given circumstance. You must make your own assessments and decisions, and you assume all risks in applying them.

QUESTION from Quinn Ager of Oakland, CA

"I have started to use cordellettes for building anchors and like that they are very versatile for a number of applications. I can't seem to find a length that is just right though. What do you recommend as a length for a cordellette. Should I have a few that are different lengths?"

Read Mike's answer to this question

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QUESTION from Rob Jesper of Madison, WI

"Sometimes when I am rock climbing at the local crag I see things that I consider unsafe. I am often caught between wanting to say something to protect the people from potential harm and not wanting to intrude on their experience. As a more experienced climber and guide, what sort of guidelines or factors do you consider when trying to decide whether or not to speak up on safety issues?"

Read Mike's answer to this question

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To ask Mike Powers your own climbing questions, email him at askaguide@aai.cc.

The Ask A Guide was created to answer your most pressing climbing related questions. Michael Powers, AAI Senior Guide and our Assistant Director for Staff Development, answers all questions. Michael oversees field staff, training, and continuing education, and serves as an instructor in mountaineering, ice, rock, and skiing. He is an IFMGA certified climbing and ski guide, serves as an instructor and examiner for the AMGA's National Guide Certification Program, and is a former Technical Director of the AMGA.

Read other Ask A Guide questions and answers.


GUIDES CHOICE: Fall Ice Sale!

[Limited to items in stock only. No backorders.]

Black Diamond Turbo Express Ice Screws 20% Off
Guides Choice Award Winner! BD turbo express ice screws offer lightning fast placements through dual taper, precision milling for sharpness and finish. They also offer a flip-down handle to crank a solid placement and give you the security you need. Was $56.95, now $45.50

Black Diamond Viper Ice Tool 20% Off
Black Diamond's lightest ice tool is also a great all-around tool due to its clearance, balance and optional attachments. The Viper offers the greatest clearance of any BD tool, making it a superb choice for highly featured ice climbs and steep mixed climbs finishing on ice. Can be used traditionally for ice climbing and also leashless for mixed climbing. Was $234, now $187


Black Diamond Glissade Gloves 45% Off
A great all-around winter glove - whether winter climbing, skiing, or ice climbing, you'll appreciate the dexterity that the Glissade Glove has to offer when you're placing pro or buckling your boots. This mid-warmth glove has a full gauntlet and waterproof insert to keep your hands dry for the wettest pillar or the sloppiest spring slush. Was $59.95, now $32.97


For advice on other gear, browse the Guides Choice web site. We feature weekly specials on a handful of items at substantial discounts. The clothing and equipment that is on sale changes every Tuesday, so check back each week. You'll find great items on clearance, and we are regularly adding products, photos, and testing notes. Snoop the website for a few items at 50% off.

PHOTO CONTEST

→ November 2007 Photo Contest: Vote for your favorite!
The photos are in, and now it's time for you, the readers, to decide which deserve to be winners.

→ Winner of September 2007 Photo Contest (click to see 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place winners):
Congratulations to Guy Manning of the Cayman Islands for winning first place in our September Photo Contest! Here is Guy's winning photo:


"On route between Tangag and Mera Peak Base Camp, Nepal" Guy Manning

→ Enter the January 2008 Photo Contest!
Send your best mountain photo(s) to climberspath@aai.cc and have a chance at winning the following prizes:

  • 1st Place: $200 gift certificate for trips or $100 for gear
  • 2nd Place: $100 gift certificate for trips or $50 for gear
  • 3rd Place: $50 gift certificate for trips or $25 for gear

      Rules:

  1. Only one win per contest is allowed per photographer.
  2. You can send multiple entries to each contest, but we will only choose two to enter in the contest.
  3. The act of submission constitutes your consent for AAI to publish your photo(s) online and in print.




Founded in 1975, the American Alpine Institute is dedicated to helping beginning and experienced climbers improve their skills and safely gain access to the great mountains of the world while protecting the natural environment. We offer AMGA accredited instructional courses, guided trips, and expeditions throughout the year in 6 states and 16 countries.

American Alpine Institute
1515 12th Street
Bellingham, Washington 98225

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